Monthly Archives: April 2015

Getting on with life

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Unfortunately even paradise does not run itself and so, around and in between visitors, we have been getting on with the daily details of life and house ownership, as well as dealing with the added pressure of having two Greek lessons each week.

In fact, although we don’t feel that our spoken Greek has improved that much, we do now manage to converse with our Greek neighbours much more easily than when we first arrived and Sheila in particular is able to visit the ‘ladies of the Parish’ (well Maria) and keep her end up for half an hour or so over coffee and cakes.

It is still difficult to conduct an ordinary conversation with most Greek people however, simply because most of them speak English much better than we speak Greek, so ‘important’ matters such as the Bank and the Car Repair Shop tend to be carried out in English. Still, σιγά, σιγά (slowly, slowly) as they say here!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur friend Rich has set up the new TV to show all manner of films which he has provided on a beast of an external hard drive. He and ‘Fifer’ Shona (whom we got to know through our Greek class) came over a week or so ago and Rich also got the 3D films to work, as our TV came complete with two sets of 3D glasses. Of course, we both look like a couple of prats with the glasses on but ‘The Lion King’ was a completely different experience with butterflies scooting around our sitting room!

The new garden furniture arrived yesterday, at some expense, from a local company (English run!) and we are very pleased with it. Although readers may feel that I am not quite so sure! The truth was that the sun was in my eyes or was it the new haircut?

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANow, all we need is the sail-cloth cover for the κρεβατίνα (literally vine-arbour!) and we shall be all set for summer. Thassos has already been to fit a bracket to the chimney, hopefully to prevent it blowing away again and we are meeting him in town tomorrow morning to meet his friend who deals in sail-cloth!

The aim eventually, is to persuade the vines to grow up and over and to provide shade in the summer months as well as to produce grapes for eating – perhaps even for our own wine!

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Well, no, actually but it is a nice thought. With local wine costing 2.60 euros in the supermarket for one and a half litres it is hardly worth the effort. Anyway, the demi-johns all went to the charity shop in Kirkcudbright.

 

 

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The weather has improved significantly over the past ten days or so and we have begun to swim regularly, if not every day.

My niece, Heidi, stayed with us for a few days over last weekend en route to an academic conference in Heraklion and she braved the water a couple of times and even felt the need to shelter from the sun on one such occasion.

All that hard work then deserved a cool beer!

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All the rain and now the sun has encouraged the weeds to put in an appearance, so last week I turned to and set about them on our front path. Perhaps swimming trunks were not the best gardening gear but I certainly kept cool!

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAUnder Sheila’s green fingers the plants have recovered from the winter storms and are beginning to look good.

April has also seen the return of various friends from Northern Europe – the Cretan equivalent of bird migration! So, we have welcomed back Peter and Hilda and Walter and Brigitte, all from Germany and look forward to spending more time with them over the coming months. Sheila was back playing tennis this morning with Brigitte and although it did not go entirely satisfactorily from her point of view (ie she lost!), they are playing again next week, so it was clearly an enjoyable time. Meanwhile, Walter took his car to the garage, as indeed, did I. Is this a men’s thing, I wonder?

Unfortunately, the car, which was in for its service, is not in great shape, even though it seems to be running rather well (or so we thought). So, it returns on Monday to have the front brakes done and various other matters attended to, such as a new timing belt – whatever that does? They made it sound serious (or at least predicted serious consequences) if it were not attended to, so there goes another three or four hundred euros. Still, with the pound riding high against the euro at present, not only is it a good time for Brits to come here but we also get a lot more for our pension. There are some upsides to the Crisis!

With all this extra money, I have decided to replace my ageing computer. Manos is on the case at the local computer shop but there doesn’t seem to be a computer to be had in the whole of Greece at present – something about stock problems over Easter! It sounds unlikely, I know, but  to use our favourite Greek phrase – Tι να κάνουμε; (What can we do?). Sheila thinks that it is a refreshing reflection on Greek attitudes to life. Me, I would just like my new computer!

Gifts of food continue from the neighbours. Maria’s brother brought fresh sardines last week which needed to be gutted and scraped! Fortunately, Maria arrived as we were looking bemused and sorted them out. I found a recipe in our Cretan Cookbook and despite not liking fish very much, even I had to admit that they were quite tasty.

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Vegetables and fruit also arrive daily and of course life would not be the same, if Nikos did not turn up with yet another pumpkin – this I think was because one day I described him, in Greek, as the pumpkin man, which he seemed to take as a compliment.

John

Postscript – we now know that the cover for the pergola is going to cost 280 euros – somewhat more than the 30 euros that Thassos had predicted!

A Month of Contrasts

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt was a beautiful, sunny day last Sunday, as well as being Easter In Greece.  John and I went for a cycle ride from Kavousi

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand found a beautiful beach. I paddled in the sea

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand John lay down in the sun.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe flowers were beautiful.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABut when you look at the picture below of the beach, you can also see snow on the hills which appeared two or three days before.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnd this sums up the contrasting weather that we have experienced in the previous month.

The weather has not been bad all of the time, but there have been spells of unsettled weather for this part of the world. There is a day or two of sunny weather and you think that spring has arrived and then there are days of the cold, windy and rainy stuff.

The expectations are that by April, it will not snow, that there will be higher temperatures and that it will be bright, not grey. It has been a bit of a shock to the system. During the last month it seems to have affected people’s state of mind. This is undoubtedly true for people who were brought up in Northern Europe. Part (and only part) of the attraction of living here is waking up to blue skies, feeling warm and generally not having to think much about the weather. Our Greek class is held in a community hall which is absolutely fine as long as the temperature is hot. In fact over the last month, we would have been better having the class outside, it was so cold inside! And for the first time ever, I heard the word ‘depression’ and a general feeling of people being out of sorts.

In the village, there has been much more comment about the weather than I heard last year and with good reason. We have joined them in their approach in coping with it – stay inside, put on the wood burning stove and watch TV. Life could be worse!

On the positive side the result has been that there is no shortage of water. The flowers look good,

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA everything is very green,

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI heard from friends and family in the UK that the weather was really good there! I did find the words in Greek to tell Katerina in the supermarket, that the weather was better in Scotland than here. She came back very quickly with the comment that in Crete, the weather is bad only for a week. True!!! On Holy Friday, my neighbour, Maria, wished me Happy Christmas, instead of Happy Easter, indicating a nice sense of humour on a very serious day. And it was very cold and miserable!

During this time, we have friends to stay.  Mary, who lives in Huntly,  came in March, had never been to Crete before and was keen to find out as much as possible but was happy to adapt to whatever weather was offered.

005She and I had a wonderful time at Gournia.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe light was beautiful and we both felt at one with the world as we wandered about the excavations in this very peaceful and quiet place

We then went to Agios Nikolos museum to see some of the Minoan treasures. I know it is not open on a Monday but this was a Tuesday and it was closed!  In my Greek class we have been given exercises about writing letters of complaint. I have got a little bored of doing this because I never thought I would actually want to complain about anything because I love it here so much. But I did feel a bit pissed off with this. I still haven’t written a letter though! However instead, we had a coffee, visited the Byzantine Church at Kritsa (Κριτσά) and then onto Lato (Λατώ) with which I am always impressed.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMary’s hugely positive experience in Gournia (Γουρνιά) left her feeling it came a poor second. There was always time for some relaxation, though away from the sights!

007We walked tp the ancient Olive tree twice which is always a treat, particularly when you see cyclamen growing at the bottom.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWith John we went by car down the Richtis (Ρίχτης) Gorge which was a new jaunt for me.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI think for Mary though, the road was a little too scary (she had said firmly at the beginning of the holiday that heights were not her thing). But I will go back and walk some of it soon, I hope.

Phil, who I always call as our ‘goat friend’ because we got to know her through keeping goats in Aberdeenshire, spent a couple of days in Kavousi with us. One of the highlights of her trip was seeing loads of  goats and sheep come down the gorge, visible from our house.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThey were then herded underneatη the main road and onto where, I don’t know.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABut I don’t think it is a very good time for these animals. There was a great smell of barbecued lamb (or was it goat?) as we cycled through Kavousi on Easter Sunday! We also enjoyed a relaxed visit to Mochlos.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThen we went ‘on holiday’ to the small town of Paleochora (Παλαιόχωρα) for a few days. Thιs pretty town is situated on a small peninsula on the very south west of the island, about an hour and a half from Hania (Χανιά).

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABelow is the very sandy beach of the town

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAbut if the wind is too great you can walk quickly over to the other side and the sea may be calmer

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand the same beautiful colour as in the east of the island.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe stayed in an apartment in the middle of the town and enjoyed cheap, friendly tavernas, a couple of them recommended by the Lonely Planet.

We went to the beach of Elafonisi (Ελαφονήσι) which is rightly regarded as one of the most beautiful beaches of Crete. It did take longer than expected to get there as we took the scenic route.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe saw a donkey which is always a treat

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand it’s rare now to see one in Crete. The route, recommended by Lonely Planet, deteriorated into a dirt road. Our car is not suitable for this so we went back down the twisty road and onto the longer but easier route which we should have taken in the first place. We then got diverted because of road works but on the way back we discovered that all the locals were just ignoring the signs and driving on the new, half made road! But in the end it was all worth it – beautiful white and pink sands and a turquoise, shimmering sea.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAJohn swam in the sea three times and that is a record, especially for April! The sea seemed relatively warm and the air temperature was high.

Another highlight was a circular walk through olive trees to Anydri (Ανύδροι), admired a bee orchid

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAsaw a goat

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand then walked down a beautiful gorge walk beside a river

007down to the sea with a piece of scrambling which was a bit of a test (but we were motivated to deal with it as going back would have meant walking back up the gorge), a sandwich lunch on the beach and a walk back along beside the sea. We had a quick diversion at Olive Tree Cottages

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAwhere we had stayed with Graham and Rosie 20 years ago.

We also had a day in Hania and on the way we passed the Agia Irini Gorge down to Sougia (Σούγια) and I thought, another time I would like to walk it.  We went to Omalos (Ομαλός) and had a look at the Samarian Gorge (το φαράγγι της Σαμαάριας). It was not open for walkers and we were definitely not tempted by it.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThere was a lot of snow about, it was foggy, cold, it looked rather scary and we were the only people there! But, by way of contrast in Hania, the sun shone, it was warm and we enjoyed the ambience and the completely outstanding water front.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe dropped Phil at the airport on the way home and reflected that when we started out thinking about coming to Crete for the winter in 2010, there was a choice of a rented house in Ferma and one in Paleochora. We chose Ferma because the person who owned it was very helpful and afterwards we moved to Kavousi in the same area. We think that we made the right choice as we contrasted the two options now. Paleochora is a lovely place in a great setting but it is a tourist town and it is more isolated from a big town, (we are only 20 minutes from Ierapetra and Agios Nikolos). But we love it as a holiday destination.

We joined our friends, Maria and Nikos, for the Saturday night, Easter service. We went back to their house and enjoyed being with their family, drinking some wine and eating traditional soup ‘σούπα’. Today we were back at our Greek class and found that we were the only two there, due to illness, travel etc.  Life begins to return to normal.

Sheila

Currywurst and Pasties (Part Two)

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From Berlin, we moved on to London, again by easyJet via Luton and full marks to Luton – everything worked like a dream. We were staying with friends, Vince and Rosy and after having dropped off our bags, we headed for the City and ‘The Artillery Arms’ where we met up with old friends, Dick Jones and Mike Quinn. It was good to see them both after a gap of quite a few years but conversation soon flowed (as did the pints of best!) and it was quite like old times.

Then it was on to another pub in Southwark to meet up with Graham and Emily and James and Claire for more chat, more drinks and an upmarket fish supper. Yum-yum, one thing we miss in Crete! It was a real delight to see all the ‘kids’ looking good and in fine voice and the evening just shot by as we caught up on news and put the world to rights.

We arrived back at V&R’s rather weary and a little worse for wear!

The next morning, Vince took us for a visit to his new allotment and we sat and enjoyed the tranquil North London scene as V&R planted some beans.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThen it was off for coffee at the local tennis club and some shopping before Rosy laid on lunch back at Addington Road. Sheila then undertook some strenuous retail therapy in Oxford Street while I watched a video of Arsenal beating Man U 2-1 in the Cup which had been thoughtfully arranged by my fellow ‘Gooner’, Rosy!

The following morning we said our goodbyes to V&R and headed for Gatwick Airport where we picked up a hire car for the trip to Cornwall with ‘our’ Rosie, who we collected en route at Poole, near where she is working. It was a pleasant drive through the West Country and we arrived at ‘The Countryman’ pub near Launceston around tea time.

We were the only people staying but it got quite busy in the evening with families and couples out for their Friday suppers and although the promised live music did not materialise, we had a great evening with Rose in good form, although it has to be said that none of us actually ate a Cornish Pastie!

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The next morning after a ‘full English’, we drove the final hour to Duchy College, near Truro, which was he purpose of the trip. Rose is thinking of taking a horticulture course there next year and they were having an Open Day. We were given a tour of the premises by an enthusiastic student and it seemed to fit the bill, so the trip was worthwhile. They certainly know how to grow daffodils too!

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Then it was time to turn around and retrace our steps, dropping off Rosie at the camp site in Dorset, where she showed us round her caravan.

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Then we set out to arrive with cousin Liz just in time for a pre-supper gin and tonic! Another evening flew by and before we knew it, it was time to leave at lunchtime the next day to stay with Phil at Bracknell.

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She showed us round her new ‘estate’ (complete with Scottish flag) and then we settled down to a further evening of good food, good wine and good company! The following morning we set off reasonably early for Gatwick, handed back the car and got the flight to Athens.

It had been a short and tiring trip to the UK but hugely enjoyable as we had managed to fit in seeing all three of our children (including their respective partners) and a number of family and friends. Many thanks to everyone who provided accommodation and meals and to those who fitted in so amenably with our plans and made the trip such a success.

Nice to be in England again but good also to be going ‘home’ to Crete!

John

PS Apologies for lack of photos of Sheila. Not sure she wanted to be seen in England!